Posts Tagged ‘Building’

Ork Workshop

Posted: December 31, 2010 in Gorkamorka, Scenery, Tabletop Gaming
Tags: , , , , ,

For my Gorkamorka board I will not need that much scenery, what with it being a barren world and all. I did like the idea of having a couple of buildings though, occupying 1/6 to 1/4 of the board or at least making it appear filled. All that would then be required would be some rocks and perhaps a hill for vehicles to bound over.

My first building was a Small Ork Hut with a Squigg pen. It would perhaps be a mobs ammo or weapons store as well as their food store. I wanted the second building to be larger than the first so I came upon the idea of having a garage or workshop with an adjoining smaller building for hammocks, bunks or just for the orks to sleep on the floor. I wanted this building to be a kind of square within a square, with two squares overlapping 1/4 of their area. The workshop half would be the complete half and slightly taller than the bunk room.

Both squares were to be 150mm by 150mm which is the same as the long side of the smaller building. This gives an effective 225mm by 225mm footprint versus the 150mm by 150mm footprint of the smaller building. The walls on the bunk room were to be the same height (75mm) as the smaller building with the workshop being 150mm tall but with a sloping roof going down to 100mm. I cut the 150mm by 150mm section then just drew on it until I saw a slope which looked about right. I was going to make this building big enough to park my Trukk but even the one out of the box would have needed a workshop 200mm by 180mm and the custom one I planned would have been even bigger. I therefore decided just to make it a workshop as apposed to a garage with car ramps etc. The first cut pieces are shown below:

First Cut

From the basic wall shapes I cut the two 150mm square walls of the garage to have the sloping roof down to 100m tall at its low point. I then used a stanley knife to cut out the windows and the doors. On the smaller windows which are completely enclosed by wall this can be quite difficult. If I had some kind of say it would be easier but I had to just cut as best I can then poke the blade through at various points to that I could see the line on the other side then cut back the other way. Fortunately ork buildings are meant to be a bit rough so I took advantage of this and purposefully made a bit of a bad job of it.


For the workshop door I cut a slant to match the roof slope. I then as with the small hut glued the parts together using No More Nails then let it set over night. You can see the square within a square design in the pictures below:


The sloping roof is going to be made of patchwork pieces of metal and mesh, as will the hut and workshop doors. As a base for the roof I stretched a piece of mesh over it and pinned it in place with drawing pins. I then covered the sections above the walls with No More Nails and rubbed it in through the mesh. The idea here is that it will dry and hold the mesh down to the top of the walls. Sheets of plastic card will then placed in an ad hoc fashion on to the roof to complete it. There will be some small parts of mesh visible through the cracks in the plastic card which should be a nice effect. The pins will be removed once the glue dries.

Mesh Roof

On top of the mesh I wanted a patchwork kind of roof, showing some of the supporting mesh underneath and with a couple of windows. Plasticard is your friend, you can do so much with it. I made the panels and the rivets for the roof. On the panels I added a lot of dents and made sure the lines were not straight. I found that sharp corners and straight lines made the panels look too well made and not orky.

Roof Panels

I am really happy with how this building is turning out:

Whole Building


Shadowbadger’s Sett

Posted: December 25, 2010 in Introduction
Tags: , , , , ,

Welcome to my log of various modelling projects. I will eventually put some better site graphics up and play with the layout a bit but this is good enough for now. I am a 29 (clinging to it hard) year old fan of GW Specialist Games, the ones that were all the rage when I was younger, two decades ago in the 90’s (eeep). Of course these are now the red headed step children of GW but hey, they kicked out a lot of good games back in the day and below you will find the contents of my blog by game along with links to other great sites.

Death and desperation in a super city factory slum on crack. Necromunda is a great tactical game with the scenery being as much a factor as the models who fight.

Crash a hulk full of orks onto a planet, ruining its eco system and buggering the hulk in the process. More fluff, blah blah blah, orks fight each other on vehicles. An awesome tongue in cheek game.

Anything that does not fit in just one game.

  • Materials – The materials I use for terrain projects.

Links to other great sites

Good places to go!

Ork Buildings

Posted: December 24, 2010 in Gorkamorka, Scenery
Tags: , , , , ,

To test the suitability of plasterboard and other materials I have been making some Ork buildings for Gorkamorka. I have yet to play the game but it looks very interesting, I am making a Goff Gorker Mob for it. One good thing about Necromunda is that it requires much less scenery than Necromunda does, the vehicles need room to move. This means it may be a good game to play whilst I am making Necromunda scenery.

For Ork buildings I like the sand wall coloured huts like ones I remember the GW studio had in epic scale in the early 90s. With coloured details in green / red, or black and white check or triangle patterned bands. I thought plasterboard would be a good material for the base shape of these given its thickness. The only thing I did not know was how easily it would cut and sand as well as whether it would crumble or crack.

To start with I measured out the out wall sections on the plasterboard. The walls were to be 75mm or approximately 3 inches high, this is both about the right height and makes it easy just knowing that it is in whole inches for movement purposes up the ladders. The first building was to be 200mm by 100m so since the plasterboard is 9.5mm think I cut two 200mm sections and 2 80mm sections (well I had Frobes cut them as I have arthritis like trouble in my hands which slows me down when doing such things). I then glued them together with “No More Nails” which was only £2 for the giant tube (minus the spring gun thing which I borrowed from my dad). It is the same kind of gun commonly used for silicone sealant in bathrooms etc.

The glued structure together structure

I then cut and sanded the roof to fit. It went in so snuggly that it does not need glue to hold it up although I will glue blocks in place underneath it as even a small movement could cause paint to crack on the finished hut. To explain the one problem with plasterboard first I will explain how to cut it. If you were to cut it with a saw it would be very messy and would break all over the place, it would also be very hard going and is too thick to cut all the way through with a sharp knife. How to cut it is to mark your sections out then score a line with a sharp stanley or craft knife. Repeat the score line two or three times, you do not need to go that deep and the extra cuts just make sure you cut some plaster and not just the card, just use the same force as you would use to cut a bit of card. Once you have done this move the board so that your section (or the rest of the piece if that is smaller) is over the table edge then with the score side up give your section a little tab with your fist, again this does not need to be hard. The plasterboard will crack right through and you can then take your knife and cut free the card on the other side.

Hut with model on top

With the roof in place the hut is starting to look good but there are some problems that need addressed. Firstly plasterboard does not always crack straight down when you cut it. Because of this it needs sanded if you want all the faces to line up. There are also gaps where the join is like in the photo below.

A crack where the join is on the corner

You can also see that in places the cardboard has become scuffed or torn. To fix this just use a little plaster, the kind used on real walls. The stuff I had was a bit old but it waters down OK and can then be spread over any bit that is recessed in any way. It can then be easily sanded for a good finish. For the Ork hut it does not matter if it is completely even since it will be covered in textured paint later anyway and it of Ork construction. I also put plaster where the roof meets the walls so that is is a smooth transition and not a crack.

Hut when plastered

By this point I had decided I wanted the hut to have a Squig pen on the back of it. To do this I made a smaller walled structure, slightly lower and glued it on to the back of the hut. This will have a roof placed on it just like the main structure.

Squig pen walls

The idea is that this is the Squig shed. It will have a little Squig flap on the bottom of the right hand wall. There will be a door on the wall facing the camera, kind of a barn door but metal and patched together ork style. There will also be a wire mesh fence with knocked together metal fence posts. I will damage the mesh a little bit with frayed edges etc and perhaps wash it with a little brown to rust it. Below are some terrible sketches but you should be able to see what I mean, they are just as a reminder for me really as to what I want to do as I am quite forgetful.


For the roof of the Squig pen I had to put some stoppers on the underside to stopp it falling through, I also cut it a little too short but that will be fillable with plaster.


For the fence I cut some pieces of plastic card and plastic tread plate and then glued them together to make patchwork fence posts. I then cut the wire mesh sections and punched a few holes in them and tattered the edges. Superglue did not stick very well to the wire mesh at all so I used no more nails such that it filled the holes in the mesh and then I placed some plastic card on the other side from the post. This meant that the the mesh was kind of held with the glue acting as a filler and the plastic is glued to the filler on either side meaning it does not matter if the metal does not stick.


I had seen a lot of people putting metal patchwork plate on the side of their ork buildings (and vehicles) and thought it looked really good. I decided to do the same using 1mm plastic card and tread plate. I tried to keep it quite simple but not a neatly cut shape. I also added the little teeth edges on the left just to make it look tuff.

Corner Plate

To let orks get on top of the squigg pen I made a little ladder out of 1mm plastic card and tread plate. Since it is quite a small ladder I just made it simple, I may on the larger side ladder add more detail and make it look a bit more dangerous.


I really like the Ork gun symbol that I remember from Battle for Armageddon, the board game from the mid 90’s with counters instead of miniatures. I played that quite recently and it was good. Anyway, using plastic card I have made a hatch on the roof which does not open but would be a way for the orks to get in the building. I also put a big un symbol on the side of it. The building is going to be the store house for weapons, ammo and squigs (food) for my Gorker Mob.

Gun Motif

I will update this as I go . . . .